An Illustrated How To On Building A Pair Of V-block Stands
All images are clickable |
Lets start with the supplies needed to build 1 pair of v-block stands.
Your wood (either pressed, pine, or hard) in 1"x6"x20".
Note here: most wood pieces sold as 1" are in fact only 3/4" thick and 6" widths are in fact 5 1/2" finished mill sizes. So when I mention sizes here these are in fact the retail sizes. I am trying to not make this difficult as it is not rocket science.
You will need a power jig or hand saw (a table saw would be best for straighter edges). Power hand drill for drilling the holes in the base's and v-blocks (a drill press or dowel pin drill kit would be best for more accurate placement of holes). A 5/16" brad point drill bit. At least 4 - 5/16"x1-1/4" wood dowel pins. A good straight edge for marking your pieces. Some good wood glue (if you intend to make the stands permanent). Some Felt 1"x9" (not shown). Some hook and loop velcro (approx 6" each v-block). Last but not least a marker, and hammer or mallet (not shown). |
 |
| In this image I have a 1"x6"x20" piece of pressed wood retail size. You can use pine or a hard wood of your choosing (if using pine watch out for knots). Make sure that it is at least 1" x 6" and at least 20" long retail size. |
 |
| Ok in this image I have measured off the base's and the v-blocks. Mark 6" wide leaving a 1/8" gap for the blade thickness in between the bases, so that you don't get uneven cuts. The v-blocks are 3" wide, leaving the same 1/8" gap. You should be able to get all the pieces you need. With some scrap left over. |
 |
| In this image I have 2 bases and 2 vertical blocks. The bases are 6"x51/2"x3/4". The vertical blocks are 51/2"x3"x3/4". These are actual finish mill sizes |
 |
Now lets mark the v slots and the dowel pin layouts.
Here were are finding the centers of the base. Note: you will wind up with a lot of markings on the base, so you might want to finish the base with some paint or (if using pine sand and stain), unless your not worried about how it looks. Do this to both bases. |
 |
| Here we stand the V-block up and measure in 3/4" from each side of the 3" wide block. Also find the center of the block thickness and the center of the 3" width. These marks will help you set the marks for the dowel pin holes in the base. Do this to both v-block bases. |
 |
| OK in this shot I have laid the v-block down and centered on the center marks of the base and v-block. You can see how easy it makes the marking for the dowel pin holes for the base. Mark both bases. |
 |
| If you are using a hand drill, make sure that you stay a vertical as possible, and mark your drill (with a piece of tape or black marker) to at least half the thickness of the base, you do not want to go all the way thru the base. Also it is a good habit to clamp the work down to steady it. Also if you have a drill press this will help. Do this to both bases. |
 |
| Here I have the marks on the bottom of the v-block and I am drilling them. My hand drill has a level in it, and comes in handy keeping each hole level. If you don't have a level in your drill, have someone eyeball the level of your drill, or you can purchase a dowel pin drill kit for this. Again make sure you mark your depth on the drill bit with tape or black marker and clamp the project down. My depth was at 1". Drill both v-block bases. |
 |
| In this image you can see that with the markings aligned and drilled accurately, the holes and dowel pins lined up very well. |
 |
Now we are going to mark the V in our v-block and cut it. First find the center line of the 3" width of the v-block and mark it if it isn't already there. Mark off 1/2" from each edge, and mark on the top edge. Then measuring down from the top edge of the v-block, mark it at 1 1/2" across the center line. Now take your straight edge, and set it at the 1/2" mark and at the 1 1/2" mark and draw a line. Do this on the other 1/2" mark and you should have the V. Do this to both v-blocks. Now you are ready to cut the V from the block. Make sure that you clamp the block down for security. Now take you power jig saw, or hand jig saw and carefully cut the V from both blocks.
Note Here: You might want to paint, or sand off the measurement marks you have made, before you place the felt and velcro, just to keep any finish off of them.
Now it's time to add the felt and velcro. |
 |
Here we have the velcro and felt added. We need about 5" to 7" long x 3/4" wide, of felt for each V. Take your wood glue and a hobby brush and paint the glue onto the V of the block, and let sit until tacky. When the glue has become tacky, then take the felt and place in the middle of the V and use your straight edge, (or a spatula or putty knife) to press the felt into the V and smooth it up and over the top edge of the block, and trim any excess. Do this to both blocks.
Now lets add the final touch the velcro.
Cut the hook side (the stiff part with the hooks) of the velcro in 1" pieces you will need 4 of them one for each face side of your v-blocks. Make a mark about 1" from the bottom of the V, add some glue there and let it get tacky. Now add some glue to the back (smooth) side of the 1" hook strip you have cut and let it sit until tacky. Then place the hook piece to the v-block face and hold for a minuet. Do this to both sides of each v-block. Now cut the soft side of the velcro at 6" to 7" you will need two pieces, one for each v-block. That length should fit around any rod blank or grip area. Give the left over to your wife, girl friend, or mother for their sewing kits, they will know what to do with it. Your done..... |
 |
Now you have a set of v-blocks that are able to hold the rod securely while you either clean the grips, balance the rod, or split the grip. The velcro will hold the rod into the v-block securely, and if you clamp the v-block to your work area, there will be little to no movement of your projects.
This project will cost you approximately $7.50
Thanks for following along!!
|
