 |
|
 |
| #1...In this first image, I have started my wrap as normal. Wrap up to were you want the in-lay set. Here I have wrapped up onto the guide foot to show it easier. |
|
#2...In this image I am going to insert my color. I use a cut off piece approx. 8" - 10" more if you feel more comfortable with a longer piece, don't be afraid to use it longer. Lay it under the main wrap thread. |
| The lose end (tag end) is allowed to turn as the wrap continues keeping it from tangling in your support wheels or v-block support. I usually use 1 - 2 more turns, I have 3 wraps here to illustrate this, with practice you will be able to use less turns. It can be done on top or next to the guide foot (doesn't matter whether it is a double or single foot guide). On spiral wrapped single foot guides I like to do it along side the guide foot. It will become a matter of personal preference as to where you want your tag and locking ends to be. |
 |
|
 |
| #3....So in this image we have 3 wraps, this locks the start of the in-lay wrap... |
|
#4...In this image I am keeping tension (not to much or you will pull the color thread out from under the locking wrap and have to start all over) on the in-lay thread, using my thumb and index finger. I do this because the color in-lay thread isn't coming through a tension devise, on my power wrapper, then I make one (1) rotation of the wrapper. Keeping the color right next to the main thread as it makes the rotation. |
 |
|
 |
| #5... In this image I'm trying to show how I move the color/in-lay thread to the left, by that I mean I have placed it in my left hand and moving the thread under the main thread and pulling the thread up to the same area as the main locking wrap is. Making sure that the main thread is packed tight against the color/in-lay thread at the point were the thread runs underneath. |
|
#6... In this image I have rotated the main thread one more full wrap keeping it tight against the in-lay wrap. At this point I will trim the tag end on the in-lay thread to shorten it (making sure not to nick the cross over). |
 |
|
 |
| #7... In this image I have finished my wrap up the guide foot, and have trimmed the left over tag ends from the in-lay thread and the main wrap thread, and am ready to burnish the wrap. You can see in the image the slight space you have, this is the reason why I do it on the side of the guide foot, that isn't usually seen while the rod is in use. As I stated before with practice you can get good enough to use less spacing of the tag and final locking of the in-lay thread. |
|
#8... In this image I have locked the wrap and made sure the threads are packed tight, and have finished my burnishing of the whole wrap. This guide is ready to coat.... |
| I have done this using only one locking rotation and there is hardly any space detected.............................. |
If you decide to do another in-lay or another thread color that will be your decision. Just make sure that all of your in-lay work is tight so that it doesn't roll out of it's space when burnishing is done. If this happens you will have to cut off the work and start over again..... |
A side note here if you are using the Forhan Locking Wrap, then I would wait until the whole wrapping process is done before trimming the tag ends from the in-lay threads. Also you can use this procedure the same way to make your in-lay (2) two, (3) three, as many turns thick as you like by just adding more rotations to the in-lay when it is laid in
I hope this has helped explain how I do the single in-lay wraps that are seen on my Custom Rods. |
