Here is how I marbled this split grip
First let me say. There are a lot of builders doing some real amazing stuff with marbleizing, and I want to make it ultra clear, that I am in no way responsible for coming up with this unique process! From this point on I am going to describe to you how I do it. Im sure that the way I do it isn't much different than the way other builders are doing it.
OK lets get started. You are going to need some knowledge of rod finishing and finishes and some good pigments. The most popular pigment for this process is TAP Resin Dyes. They come in 8 different colors and are very inexpensive. Also, very popular are the Testor's model paints, which come in a wide assortment of colors (the metallic's I particularly like). When using Testor's, I let the paint settle and pour off as much of the solvent as possible, leaving only the thicker color pigment.
You will need to prep your area, in the split grip shown above, there was a St.Croix blank decal, that if left uncovered would show up under my marbling so I needed to cover it. I accomplished this with an under wrap of a size A black thread. If you have markings in the area you intend to marble you can do the same, only looking back at this rod it had a charcoal matte blank, I think that I would have been better off using a charcoal color thread instead. Just to match the blank color. Once you have your area prepped it is time to get into the fun stuff.
Once you have your pigments, you will need to select your colors that you want to use, and the appropriate number of mixing for each color, plus one for the base coat.
A note about the base coat: Because I have laid an under wrap of thread, I had chosen not to color the base coat (I use FlexCoat High Build Finish), so that the threads color would show through. That way when I chose my colors I only needed to pick the Blue and the White. "Many builders will color their base coats"
Now if you want a color that is not in any of your pigments, you will have to custom mix your pigments. Take a toothpick and dip the pigment and place into one of your mixing cups, do this with all of the colors it will take to make the custom color/s you need. Once you have all of the pigment colors you need, it is time to mix your finish batch/s. For this rod I mixed a 10cc clear base coat batch of finish, once that was done I poured off into each cup containing my pigment colors, about 1cc of the clear in each and mixed each well. Then I poured the clear mix that was left over onto the threads, and proceeded to level the base coat finish.
A note here: The rod is turning at 6rpm while I am doing my marbling.
Next using another tooth pick I dip it into one of my colors and place a drop onto the clear base color. I do this until I have a good spacing of the drops. Then I take the tooth pick for that color and swirl those drops I have placed. Now I go on to my next color and repeat the drop process until I have them spaced the way I want, then with that colors tooth pick I swirl that color, making sure that I overlap some of the colors (not all). Now once I have the effect I am after, I will flame with an alcohol burner the area to thin my finish and allow it to flow some, then I place my rod in my drying box, and let it level and cure for 8 hrs.
Once the rod has had it's 8 hrs. cure time, I then remove it and get ready to place the blank manufactures decal and my shop decal over the marbling that was done. Once the decals have dried I then mix one last clear batch of finish, and coat over the marbling and decals. I then place the rod back into my drying box, and let it turn and cure for another 8 hrs, the finished product is shown above. I hope that I have help you understand the process of marbling.
Thanks for following along. |
