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Adding weight in order to change a factory bass rod's balance point is an option for sure. But whether or not exercising that option is a wise thing to do remains up to you.
(In the case of custom bass rods you and the builder).
Finding the Balance Point
(Reel Is Mounted)
Before we can begin any discussion on adjusting a bass rod's balance point, I'm going to define what and where that point is. For the purposes of this discussion, any bass rod's balance point, is that location where the rod/reel balances without falling towards the butt or the tip. If you normally hold the rod/reel at the seat and at this point you lift your finger (for a fulcrum), you would not feel the rod trying to fall to one end or the other. I call this the neutral balance point. If the balance point is forward of where you normally hold the rod/reel or (around and forward of the fore grip), I consider it to have a "forward balance" point, or the rod is "Tip Heavy".
There are about 20 different techniques we use in bass fishing. Rather than cover each one, here is a summary
Tight Line Moving Lures
Blades, Cranks, Buzz baits, etc. The rod is always loaded when using these lures. There isn't any amount of weight you can add to the butt that will neutral balance the weight and pull of the lure with these techniques (I would add weight ONLY for a requested balance point other than neutral).
Flippin Sticks
These long bass rods (7&1/2 & 8 ft) are always tip heavy and could use some weight to make them feel better. I would NEVER add weight to a Flippin Stick, they are already heavy enough (unless again requested by a customer).
Jump Lures
Jigs, Worms, Spoons, etc. These are slack line techniques and tip heavy rods can be made more sensitive by adding weight to the butt.
NOTE: If your using high end/high modules rods (GLX, SHX, RX8, SCV, etc.) for these techniques, there is little advantage to adding weight to a lightweight high-performance rod to enhance it's sensitivity.