A quality fishing rod begins with the use of high quality components. I don't believe in cutting corners on components to "save a buck". When this is done, the end result is a rod that you won't be completely satisfied with. Over the years, I have used many rod building components and feel that those I suggest here, are the finest available. There are many good manufactured rods available, that will do a lot of the tasks that anglers are looking for. Although some may come close, they are not crafted with the same care and attention to detail of a custom rod. Consider some of the advantages listed below.
Rod Blanks: I build exclusively on St.Croix blank made in the USA (while other blanks can be considered). These are quality blanks that are light weight, strong and durable. These range from the SC2 to the SC5 series blanks. Your blank will determine to a large degree how your rod will balance out (but the reels weight is the key factor). Although I do it on rack rods, I prefer not to put weight in the butt section of a rod except in extreme cases (read my balancing article).
Rod Spine: (Spine Or "Effective Spine" is an effect created by several manufacturing anomalies. The result is that the rod blank will favor bending along a particular axis when load is applied.) In short this is the position that the rod settles to when flexed. All rod blanks have a spine. Makers of mass produced rods don't have the time to find the spine on their rod blanks. They will usually go with the straightest side, which may not coincide the spine. There are a number of methods and devices used to determine the spine of the rod. I accomplished this by placing the butt section on a flat surface, such as my rod table. Then place the rod tip in my left hand. The final step is to push down on the blank in the center, with my right hand, causing the rod to bend. The blank is rolled across the table, which will cause the rod to settle in a relaxed, flexed position. The reel seat and guides are placed on this spine (in the case of a baitcasting rod), and (on the opposite side for spinning rods), to optimize casting accuracy and/or fish fighting abilities.
Guides: for spinning and casting rods come in a lot of different sizes, colors and styles. The most common guides I use for this application are the Fuji® (Hardloy and Alconite) guides laid out in the "New Concept" spacing. They are constructed of Alconite or Hardloy ceramic inserts in a black light frame material, which decreases the overall weight of the rod, thus enhancing rod blank action. We can discuss your applications, then decide on the guide that would best suit your situation. I have seen other guides, from other manufacturers that look nice, but seem to have a higher incidence of the ceramic insert popping out. This requires replacement of the guide. Because of my experience, I encourage all clients to use the best Fuji® products.
Reel Seats: for casting and spinning rods are produced by a number of manufacturers. I only use Fuji® graphite reel seats. The casting reel seats I use have exposed trigger areas ECS, which allow your fingers to make contact with the blank (I suggest these on worm, jig, etc rods). This increases the ability to feel subtle strikes. I recommend using the Fuji® Deluxe graphite or burl cork Tennessee reel seats on spinning rods. If you have found that most spinning reel seats are too small (16mm) and cramp your hand as I have, consider constructing your rod with a larger diameter seat (17mm - 18mm). It will make casting your rod all day long, more pleasurable. For you cold weather anglers the graphite material is warm to touch.
Burl Cork: is what I use for handle construction. Because the quality of natural white cork can vary greatly. I only use the best imported burl cork available. I prefer to use burl cork because of no pitting and a good grain pattern and the hand grips it better. Plus it is more dense and helps with the balancing of the rod. When the rod is done I seal the grips with a cork sealant to keep grim and dirt from building up on the grip. My belief is that if you are going to spend the money for a custom rod, get the finest components that you can afford.
Rod Builders Epoxy: Is the only adhesive I use to apply the cork grips and reel seats to the blank. Prior to gluing the grip/s and seat, the blank is fine sanded to provide a water break bonding surface. The area is cleaned to remove any dirt and oils, that may interfere with the bonding process. This care insures that you won't have a handle or reel seat that breaks loose in the future.
Guide Wraps: I use Gudebrod® nylon threads for all guides wraps. A vast number of colors are available and can be combined in any combination that you desire. I wrap all my rods by hand and the utmost care is taken to ensure there are no gaps or over wraps. I wrap all single-foot guides with the Forhan Locking Wrap, to decrease the possibility of the guide being pulled from beneath the wrap. The threads can be treated with color preserver, to maintain its color when the epoxy finish is applied. Many of my clients prefer not to use the color preserver. This causes some thread colors to become totally transparent (stealthy), allowing the guide feet to be seen beneath.
Decorations: I don't do butt Weaves, Diamond or Chevron wraps. These wraps take several hours to complete, depending on the complexity of the pattern chosen, and they add weight to the rod. Instead I do what is called a marbling and flaming usually in the split section between the seat and butt end, marbling can also be done in the fore grip area. A decorative marbling will make your rod truly unique (because it cannot be reproduced the same way twice).
Special Note: I do not do inscriptions on the rods (ie "Made for, or Custom Built for John Q Angler")
Flex Coat High Build: A flexible finish that is applied to the threads to provide long lasting protection with it's UV inhibitors, yellowing will be minimized from long hours of sun exposure on boat decks, etc.
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